Sunday, 6 March 2011

Agnes Water - written March 7th, Agnes Water

One thing Agnes Water has made me realise is the type of traveller I want to be. Sam and I have lived and worked at Cool Banana’s for nearly six weeks now and it was just what we needed. After being on such a strict budget in Asia and New Zealand, then working and living in a hell hole in Bundaberg we just were not ready to get onto the busy tourist trail, spend all our hard earned cash in 3 weeks and have to work again. Living in Agnes has provided us with the chill out time we needed and really given us a home in Australia.


Let me describe the hostel to you. A two story, Balinese themed beach house with ten, eight share, dorms, a spotless well stocked kitchen, huge cosy lounge room, lovely showers and you can reach a four kilometre white sand beach in just five minutes. Need I go on?


Agnes itself only had a population of around two and a half thousand. There is a tiny town centre with a few shops and cafes and several other beaches within ten minutes’ walk. Many people only use this as a one night stop over between Fraser and Whitsundays and that is just such a shame as there is so much to do here. Sam and I had surf lessons (predictably he succeeded at this far better than me!), went for a kayaking trip in 1770 and learnt to surf waves, paddling home in the sunset drinking wine and eating fruit cake! There was also Scooteroo, flamed leather jackets, choppers and bombing around the countryside and free 4wd national park tours from the kindest locals you have ever met. Not to mention Lady Musgrove island where we snorkelled with about eight turtles all day long. We even had a staff trip out to Lowmead – the smallest village I have ever seen. We had a picnic in the meadow behind the pub and went kangaroo spotting at the golf range on the way home. And the above only covers the day activities – we enjoyed getting to know so many other travellers around the nightly campfire, cooking delicious fresh meals in the spotless kitchen, visiting the meat raffles and drinking a lot of red wine while dancing in the kitchen.


We definitely worked hard in Agnes (and sweated hard too with the tropical climate and cyclones) but all the fun activities, laughs with friends made here and countless sunny days at the beach totally outweighed it all. I am so glad we came here and managed to wangle an extra six weeks without working. We even still have one more trip to do before we leave – Castaway where we fly a tiny plane over to an island and fend for ourselves for a night. Shame about the camping but it will be another adventure! Despite how much I hate to leave Agnes it feels time to move on and travel the east coast, and end up in Sydney for some city life and comforts, but Agnes has definitely reminded me of what sort of traveller I want to be. I love all the key attractions and awesome photo opportunities as much as the next person, but to be stuck to a rigid schedule of bus times and tour operators, to always be rushed only ever meet English people does not feel right. I want to be someone who is happy to jump off the beaten track, get to know the locals and discover as much of the ‘real’ country as I can, because the traveling experience I have had so far, tells me those are the stories to write home about.

Fraser Island - written March 7th, Agnes Water

After a very drunken farewell at Cellbock that included raving in the TV room, games of muck muck and shots of something disgusting that was 55% (Thanks Steve) it was time to board the 3:30am bus heading to Rainbow Beach. Our fellow British traveller Kerry, who we met in New Zealand was coming to Fraser with us and met us from the bus stop at 7:30am with hot tea and a hangover very similar to ours.


We checked into Pippie’s beach house and spent the day relaxing, eating Caesar salad and meeting our Fraser group. We shopped for alcohol and food for the trip and spent an hour watching videos about car accidents and dingo attacks. Hmmm maybe not so excited about going now!


We left at 9am the next morning. Our group was sixteen of us; Eight in two cars with the guide Jen driving the lead vehicle and the rest of the drivers taking turns in the second car. Our group was Sam and Emma, two hairdressers from London on a six week campervan adventure on the east coast. One Welsh girl called Hannah traveling alone, who we forced to do countless Gavin and Stacey impressions. Also two other British girls Sam and Leanne who were traveling alone but met on the Oz experience bus. Lastly there was myself, Sam and Kerry. We all got on really well and the first stop was Lake Mckenzie a fresh water lake formed in the middles of the largest sand island in the world. The lakes sand was 97% silica and you could brush your teeth with it. You could also wash your hair and it came out really soft. Unfortunately the weather was grey so we did not get the postcard pictures but still had a great time.


We headed off to camp for a fire, dinner and some beers. Our group took some beers down to the beach and took some photos and had a few drinks. Then back to camp to freak out at the huge spiders around the campsite – literally massive. We asked our tour guide Jen what we should do if we got bit by one. Her serious reply was ‘Have a beer and a cigarette because it will be your last’ Excellent news! We had a sausage barbeque and sat round the campfire roasting marshmallows. It was a really nice evening.


We had been warned many times before we went not to have any item of food (even chewing gum) in the tents as the campsite was unfenced and many dingos patrolled round at night. If they smelt you had food in the tent there was a good chance they would just tear it down. Although we had no food in the tent I woke up at 3am to hear a dingo panting right outside the tent door and pacing up and down sniffing our tent. Bit of a struggle to get back to sleep after that!


We woke up in the morning and tried to go for a long walk on the beach to a shipwreck, but we were stopped by the giant march flies that plagued the beach. Around 5 times the size of a normal fly they just did not leave you alone and there were hundreds of them – we actually had to turn back! We went to Eli creek with the whole group that day, another freshwater creek which you could float down on rubber tubes. The boys also had a big game of beach football until it started to rain and we headed back to camp for lunch.


After lunch we visited the champagne pools, if you are thinking pools of champagne and a beach party it is not the case! The pools are several large rock Jacuzzis and as you sit in them and the wave crash over it bubbles like champagne. The waves are much stronger than they look and nearly knocked Kerry off her feet! After a sea soak we climbed up to the highest point on Fraser to get an ariel view. On a calm nice day we were told you can spot sharks and dolphins down in the water but this day was windy and rainy so no luck there!


Another night round the campfire with goon and marshmallows again and then the next morning we awoke to sunshine! Hurrah! Today we were visiting Lake Wabby and this was definitely a highlight of Fraser. A forty minute treck through the rainforest and out onto a giant sand bar. A really stunning view was waiting for us at the top of sea to the east and rainforest to the west. After trekking along the sand bar for about ten minutes we then hiked down the extremely steep sand hill to a beautiful emerald lake below. The sun was out, the water was lovely and there were dozens of catfish surrounding us in the lake! It was a really great way to finish off Fraser – we drove all the way back to the ferry listening to Queen and joined in a group head bashing to Bohemian Rhapsody. Off back to Rainbow Beach for some cold beers and a proper sleep. I really do hate camping….

Wednesday, 2 February 2011

Bundaberg. Written - Feb 3rd, Agnes Water

Bundaberg…what to say about it?
The aim was to get a second year visa for Australia and earn some money as we had nothing but fluff in our pockets. So in that sense we achieved our aim. We also did meet some great people on the journey. Other than that three months passed in a long haze of rotten tomatoes working with a manager who couldn’t tell his arse from his elbow, fruitlessly cleaning dirty machines, living in a despicable hostel with a rude, arrogant, alcoholic, work manager, and drinking away the pain of being there on days off. Onto better times…..

Saturday, 29 January 2011

Classic book challenge

Through this trip I have set myself the challenge of reading as many classic novels as I can via my Nintendo DS!

So far I have read:

Pride and Prejudice
Sense and Sensibility
Alice in Wonderland
Little Women
Around the World in 80 Days
Jane Eyre
The Importance of being Earnest
Sherlock Holmes
Gullivers Travels
The Picture of Dorian Grey
Vanity Fair
Phantom of the Opera
Sons and Lovers
The Three Muskateers
Mansfield Park
Persuasion
Emma
What Katie Did

Got to keep going!

New Zealand – South Island, written January 30th, Agnes Water, Australia

Cast your minds back as the below took place in mid-September… tomato depression deterred me from writing this until now!! More on that later…

The next morning 40 very hung over people boarded the bus in Wellington at 7am. After several trying incidents such as wallets, cameras and passengers left behind, frantic searches and Swedish shouts of ‘Follow that bus!’ at taxi drivers everyone was aboard and accounted for; and suitably passed out in the ferry bar. It looked like a refugee camp for backpackers with the odd Kiwi alcoholic having a pint and watching the news at 9:30am. Despite this being one of the most scenic ferry journeys in the world and an exciting day trip in itself (MYTH) we could see nothing – the clouds hung low and it rained the whole time. We switched buses on the other side and gained some new travellers, most notably Rob and Brad. : ) We drove pretty much straight through to our nights stop in Nelson. One supposedly short toilet stop provided some laughs as we got 10 minutes down the road before we realised our Israeli comrade was not back on the bus after going for a walk. Flea u-turned the bus and we pulled back into the car park to see…no sign of Amir. No fear because seconds later a Winnebago sped into the car park and screeched to a halt in front of the bus. A confused retired Kiwi couple peered at us. With a grin Amir’s face appears between them. He jumps back on the bus to huge cheers and laughter at his ability to get a 2 hour hitch hike so speedily!

Nelson was relatively un-eventful, we cooked Scott and Naomi our Vietnamese curry recipe for dinner and chilled out. We left some people in Nelson as it is the gateway to the Abel Tasman national park (think kayaking down rivers with beautiful canyons and forests on either side). The next day began rainy and grey AGAIN and off we went to Westport. We were due to do some jet boating that afternoon but we were told as we arrived that it was cancelled. Determined to do it the group waited to see if the weather would clear and it did! Around 20 of us sped down the river stopping to look at waterfalls along the way. After around 40 mins we turned around and picked up on the pace doing handbrake turns and skidding just avoiding the rocks at the edges all the way back. Despite full body wet weather gear we all got soaked. The rain started up on the way back and with the sped it felt like getting hit in the face repeatedly with a staple gun!

Charlie a.k.a ‘Gunhawk’ (a 67 year old Scottish guy who had never travelled before and did EVERY activity on offer for charity, including skydiving and bungee jumping despite being scared of heights and black water rafting despite not being able to swim. A top guy who just needed to rectify his body odour issues! He seemed to enjoy the jet-boating the least and kept his beanie pulled all the way down over his face with safety goggles over the top!

The next day we were off the ‘Poo Pub’, a single stop in the middle of nowhere where the Kiwi bus stops for a big fancy dress party and a general night of carnage. The theme for our party was: Over the top/Bad Taste/Erotica trying to incorporate all three Sam and I dressed as Joseph Fritzel and his daughter. I even had a balloon saying: ‘world’s no1 dad’ - close to the line I know but believe me I know people who have done worse!! We had a good time but it was tainted by a bout of food poisoning that kept about 15 of us up puking all night long!

The four hour bus journey the next day was a VERY long one. We arrived at Franz Joseph and checked into our own room to recover from illness. Once again it was raining and the glacier hike, the main attraction in Franz was cancelled. Our whole Kiwi bus were moving on heading down to Wanaka but Sam and I were still poorly and also desperate to hike a glacier so we stayed in Franz Joseph an extra few nights to recover and wait until the weather cleared to do the hike. On the day of the hike we went to the tour centre and suited up in full waterproofs, hiking books and crampons to take for once we got on the ice. The guide said we were very lucky as the whole glacier was covered in 2 inches of snow which only happens once or twice a year. We caught a bus to the base of glacier and then climbed the near vertical gravel staircase to get onto the ice. It was seriously hard work all day long, climbing ice staircases, squeezing through tiny gaps between ice walls, crawling through bright blue ice caves, all of which was not made easier by the cheeky guides who pelted you with snowballs or dropped a shovel of snow on your head as you walked past. I loved the alpine parrots, green parrots with multi-coloured wings that live on the glacier. After the major work out Sam and I heading to the natural thermal pools and relaxed in the baths. That night we had some drinks with the people we left behind in Nelson as they had now caught up with us in Franz Joseph.

The next morning we drove onto Wanaka. The drive was stunning, with mountains all around. Wanaka itself was a really cute little ski town surround by resorts with a beautiful lake front looking out over the mountains. We spent the day walking round the lake and climbing trees before an early night. We knew we were meeting out Kiwi bus in Queenstown the next night and it would be a big one!!

That night in Queenstown we checked into a full room of our Kiwi travellers and partied the night away in the coolest town in New Zealand, free shots at Buffalo Bar and drinking cocktails out of teapots in World bar. The next morning, very hung over we headed to one of the star attractions of Queenstown – Fergburger! Fergburger is simply the most amazing burger shop ever! You can get anything ranging from the Ferg with cheese to the Cod Father to the BIG AL. Al lived up to its name. Half a pound of NZ beef, 10 rashers of bacon, 2 fried eggs, onions, beetroot, tomato, lettuce, swiss cheese and sauces! All the boys made it their mission and it was all Sam ate for over 24 hours! Their chips with aioli sauce were intensely good too. I would fly back to NZ just for another one of these burgers!

After a couple of days of Ferg Coma –we all ate there every day! The delayed Franz Joseph crew showed up and we decided to rent a car and go on a road trip south to Dunedin with Scott and Naomi in search of penguins and sea lions. We rented the cheapest car juicy offered, which actually had ‘El Cheapo’ spray painted on the side of it causing all the locals to point and laugh as we drove around in it. We drove four hours south, slowing for games of ‘Hey Cow’ and finally arrived at our chosen hostel: ‘Hogwarts’. An awesome hostel with single beds instead of bunks (a rarity) a gorgeous kitchen and the first hostel I had seen in NZ to own all 3 extended editions of Lord of The Rings in the TV room. Excellent! The four of us made dinner and watched all three over two days. It had to be done while we were in country where it was made and we had seen and walked through all the places it was filmed in the past few weeks.

After weeks of rain we finally got lucky with the weather and although it was still chilly we had some amazing days of sunshine. We drove all the coastal drives in the area (giving the Canadians a chance to drive on the other side of the road!) and on the second day went down to the beach where wild sea lions chill out and you can walk among them. We spotted so many and got really close, it was really amazing. Naomi and I also got chased a little – awesome! We missed out on the penguins due to the tide and not being able to get past the huge amount of giant sea lions on the beach.

Feeling refreshed and happy to have seen at least a little sunshine we drove back to Queenstown and dropped the car off (the boys had a very interesting experience hitch hiking back from the airport!) That night we met up with our favourite scousers; Hannah and Bethan and went out for another night in Queenstown, party cardi in tow.
Onto our final stop in NZ; Christchurch. Having been hit by the earthquake only a couple of weeks before a lot of the city was it disrepair and very quiet. Sam and I were also seriously lacking in funds due to how expensive NZ is and spent our last 3 days walking around and reading. We did however discover Sam likes sushi! He is on a seafood discovery on this trip! Sushi was actually also one of the cheapest take out foods to buy so we ate a lot of it!

So concludes five weeks in New Zealand. Full of extreme adventure, myths, Lord of The Rings themed homoerotic jokes and some amazing new friends from all over the world. We head to the airport to conquer Australia, but with only 100 Aussie dollars between us, it might prove difficult.

NZ crew:

Scott and Naomi - Canada
John and Linus - Sweden
Megan and Janice - Canada
Robyn - Scotland
Deena - Canada
Brad - England
Rob - Scotland
Chelsea and Lindsay - Australia
Charles - Scotland
Dan a.k.a Trevor - England
Alan and Kerry - England
Amir - Israel
Hannah and Bethan - not just England - Liverpool!!
Louise - England
Jade - England